Amritsar

Top tips

1. Partition Museum

   Give it two hours. The letters room is hard to walk out of.

   by Meera
2. Kesar Da Dhaba

   Dal makhani simmered overnight, phirni in clay bowls.

   by Meera
3. Golden Temple at 4am

   The palki ceremony at 4. Cool marble, warm kada prasad. Go once at this hour.

   by Meera

Android app: after the download, open the file and allow “install unknown apps”. iPhone or computer? Open it in your browser.